Along the way - Build Series.
Lythrox
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Post: #1

So it started three years ago, I went to liquidate my entire equipment set.

Though I had only sold my Masada, I regretted it. Though the sport is expensive, it's a great time. Recently I spoke to someone who still plays to whom I work with. We've as two people, decided to work towards getting into next season. However I am going to build a whole new Masada from the ground up starting with the gear box and then purchasing the A&K frame and flip out the standard that comes with it for a QD shell.

So next pay check I will pick up the shell.

As well if you all might remember I was working on drafting the entire gear box out for this and the Airsoft community. So that will happen, as the project steps forward.

The drafting will be done in a new software I have grown to love over the past 5 months in my academic choices which is Solidworks.

The same goal is in mind to provide an exploded view of the internals so that gun techs can discuss and aid in explanation to customers which components were damaged.

This project will kick off End of next month and continue through to the spring.

EDIT: There is already a Version Two Mech Box, Drafting Model out on the web. I will use this model to create Exploded views of Gear boxes and make my own changes.

Where am I at personally? I have been attending Algonquins Mechanical Engineering & Technology program since the beginning of September which I have drastically expanded a lot of my knowledge from Niagara College.

The overall plan is to obtain equipment over the next 10 years and start manufacturing Airsoft parts myself right here in Ottawa, as a small home run business.

[Image: Signature.png]
(This post was last modified: 12-09-2017 01:24 PM by Lythrox.)
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Lythrox
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Post: #2

Part :1

Lessons can be learned on and off the field. They come in many shapes and forums. Do's and Don't.

Today, I start with mine and gladly share them.

The Gear Box

[Image: 20171209_110333[1].jpg]

This is an APS - QCS - V2:MP5 Configured Shell. The selector plate is an M4. It comes with 8mm Bushings out of the box.

Shims and Bearings

[Image: 20171209_110353[1].jpg]

These are the Shims and Bearings I am going with.

You can determine from the photos. That I left two Stainless Steel Bushings in the shell. These are for the Crest Gear, which receives the most shock force in your gear box and this happens every time you fire a BB. It's caused when the spring is completely compressed and releases. This force, from tension, over time can increase the wearing of the bearings. Bushings are the best component, for this specific application.

Science

This is because the balls are small and spread out. Meaning more force acts through them individually, especially when the spring is compressed. It has a chance to flat spot the bearings or in the case of ceramic, chip, the force can also dimple the ring if the ceramic is tough.

Bushings are direct contact, as such they distribute the force through the gear box more constantly. Taking the strain from the spring and gear; displacing it through the frame. Meaning the other gears behind the crest, only take force when compressing the spring, when the motor is winding.

This same principal, is used on the spring guide and piston head; when they're sliding through the Cylinder. Thus bearings are good for compression and efficient release. As the spring wants to return. The pocket of air between the cylinder head and piston. Provide a small cushion, thus these bearings don't get damaged so easily. The spring wants to spin, to release tension and allow the force to be transferred easily. Thus putting bearings on both ends of the spring, means the spring can relax easier. However, the spring will loose some shock force.

Thus if you want more FPS and pressure. It's best to allow the side of the spring near the guide, to spin and lock other side. This will cause parts to wear quicker, than having bearings on both sides. However, the initial FPS will be greater.

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(This post was last modified: 12-09-2017 01:30 PM by Lythrox.)
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Lythrox
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Post: #3

As mentioned here is the exploded view of the internals of the version 2 gear box.

Edit: (Updated - 12/14/17 )
[Image: V2.png]

The PDF is at this link.
Version 2 Mech Box - Exploded View

[Image: Signature.png]
(This post was last modified: 12-14-2017 12:36 PM by Lythrox.)
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Lythrox
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Post: #4

In this photo you see Modify's GP03-04-1, Low resistance Exterior Cylinder, Smooth Bore & Aluminum Piston. Mad Bull PX - RAM. SHS V2 Tappet and 18:1 gears. Sadly I couldn't find Helical gears Sad

[Image: 25397896_10159824685790464_1087089829_o(1).jpg]

I use one specific step, which I believe is common practice that can easily be described, so no photo needed. When installing the piston to the ram I apply opposing vectors of force. Pushing down on the RAM and up on the piston. This sets the rack, closer to the sector gear, ensuing a better mesh and less skipping, or stripping gears.

For the moment, I am only storing the components in mech box. So it's a dry assembly at the moment. Shimming will be done later during final assembly. While I am waiting for the rest to arrive; springs, motor, pawl, trigger and electrical. I might for-go, this because I will get some of these parts when I purchase the model. Though, there are some small upgrades to the Pawl (anti reverse latch), that I like.

This is the bolt pattern I use. When assembling my gear boxes.

[Image: Pattern.png]

I will also update the exploded view drawing as I do more work with the cad files supplied by Jens at GrabCad.

The idea is to contribute to this project and make something the community can use. Through much troll and some actual discussion. There are somethings I want to review before I jump into those projects. However, I still feel there is some improvement that can be done to the overall box.

So even if it's a step backwards, which happens, it's not going to hinder the project to produce a air soft gun that is not a replica, nor restricted that uses a lot of standard parts that works for the community which was the direction I personally was going in.

More photo's to come.

[Image: Signature.png]
(This post was last modified: 12-26-2017 01:50 AM by Lythrox.)
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Lythrox
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Post: #5

This side track isn't for glory, it's necessary to my overall plan.

Insanity: is doing the same thing and expecting different results.

With the weak state of Masada Stock Buttons, I had to return to a reproduction process that was my claim to fame in the Ottawa Area, but I wasn't trying to ever say "Look how good I am". I was trying to say, look what you can do with about $0 of scrap steel, migwelder and yes some basic hand tools.

I want to stress, I don't count on luck often when it comes to manufacturing and fabricating. It's an art that has been lost in Canadian tradition too that has stuck with my family.

I began where I did last time, reveres engineering the mechanical operation and features of the component. From here, I can average out what the key tolerances are of the piece and essentials. Working backwards, I started with the latch and then moved to the button. Which this time was made out of 5 parts of sheet metal. The trick is to decide when the right time is to drill and tap the hole for the spring guide. Which I used a #8-32 Screw, cut off the head, filed and cut a slot in it, to turn with a flat head screw driver.

The only bad luck I had was blow through, sadly this time, I didn't change my welder power settings and turn it down to accommodate the weak sheet metal to shape the face for the latch to mount on. Most people, would call it quits right there, cut away the slag and try to recover the screw. However I pressed on, reforming the face out of tack welds. (This I have been told by several welders in our area is unbelievable.) It's completely possible though, if you know how electrical current flows through steel and how to direct metal while welding. Great welders know exactly what I am talking about.

From here I filed the face smooth, leveled and mounted the latch completing the piece. Some grounding needed to be done internally which resulted in shaping, and compromised the screw. Here I took a gamble and it payed, because now the screw is shaped smooth, but sadly can't be replaced so easily, but again, it's not impossible either Wink

This is one lesson I learned from my last Stock button. That I want to share as I continue forward, nothing, no matter how crude it is, will ever replace how well it functions. My first one was twice as crude and was still complimented. So, never be afraid to fix something, that makes the gun not look "perfectly stock"

I would rather have function for a stock button, than known to break, that's a direct "prefect" replacement. Hoping it won't break again, because that's the definition of insanity isn't it?

[Image: 20171225_130805.jpg]

I will be using Games workshops black primer in the spring, I find this paint drys quick, can be used on metal and all kinds of plastics. It's a durable finish and something I recommend. This was painted with black gloss engine block paint. Just to seal it from the elements for now.

[Image: 20171225_130820.jpg]

[Image: Signature.png]
(This post was last modified: 12-26-2017 01:40 AM by Lythrox.)
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jiamingqian
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Post: #6

Not sure if this applies to much, but I have a Massada that has the old PTS and Magpul licensing upper receiver. I also have the lower, but it is engraved.

In addition, I also have the We-tech parts.

As a side note, the air compression parts, mainly the cylinder may have long-term issues as it is coated and the coating may wear off, a steel one like ZCI's cylinders may last longer.
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