hey so i got a gun in a trade and it fired fine when i first tested it, but a couple hours later i went to test it again and it wouldnt fire. i opened her up and the plastic between the 2 trigger contacts was melted to the main body of the switch.

i managed to get it apart and the wires are in tact. all i need is a switch. with the bracket that holds the contacts apart as well of corse. what i want to know is which switch to get because this one is made of abs i believe and i want something that can handle heat better (possibly a teflon or something switch)

maybe someone has one lying around even that they would sell to me, because i dont need wire or anything else that comes in these kits.
Btw its a v3 trigger

G36 switch
http://www.airsoftparts.ca/store2/index....ts_id=1642

AK front wire
http://www.airsoftparts.ca/store2/index....ts_id=1566

AK rear wire
http://www.airsoftparts.ca/store2/index....ts_id=1365

your better off getting a pre-wired switch. less of a hassle to get it soldered up, and a good chance that the wires are far superior to the stock ones.

now if i were you i'd figure out why the switch melted, its not a comon occurance. without correcting that problem it might melt another switch, they dont often come in anything but PVC. what brand and type is the gun?

the wires in this arent stock it was a king arms trigger assy according to the guy i got it from. the gun is a jg g36k with kwa internals

Lipo battery?

7.2v 2500mAh NiMH

i also have a 9.6v 2200mAh

guessing it was previous damage from the prior owner, to be safe though, i would replace the whole switch assembly and wiring just incase it was a short in the wires that caused the switch to melt. ive only ever heard of it happening with 11.1v lipo batteries though.

i cant test for continuity or resistance because i dont have a battery in my multimeter but when i plug the battery in i get a full reading in dc, would i be able to notice a short this way?

dunno, i generally only find shorts when my gun catches fire.

i say to replace the whole switch including wires for 2 reasons, one its alot faster, you dont have to solder it up.

second, i havent seen any v3 switches without wiring for sale on this contenent.

You can't use the voltmeter to find shorts. You need resistance / continuity for that.

It was a King Arms brand new trigger switch btw.. It ran 100% fine.. The wiring all the way to the deans was King arms. I dont see how any of it was modified or not stock or new..

I know my work is good and Dunno how this switch shorted so easily when it was running 100% when I left.

I'm not sure of your experience with airsoft, and I in no way mean this as an insult - some people honestly don't know, so I'm just putting it out there.

Even though a high-cap mag can hold 200 - 400 or more rounds, the guns are NOT designed to shoot for extremely long sustained times. Regardless of how little resistance you have in your setup, running a high-end battery and holding the trigger down for 150 continuous rounds has the chance of causing damage - things will heat up no matter what, and thin metal / plastics don't like sustained heat. High heat (higher resistance setup) in short bursts is far less damaging than a lower heat for longer sustained periods.

It doesn't matter if you spend $2000 in upgrades to buy the absolute top-of-the-line best stuff, holding down the trigger for more than 20 - 30 rounds bursts is not recommended on an AEG. Anyways, if you're pushing 30 round bursts you need to work on your aim or your ability to gauge distances.

ive only pulled the trigger on this gun twice. havnt even fed a round through it lol.

I think the point Lymbo was trying to make is that its HOW LONG you held the trigger down for, not the amount of rounds you sent through it. In an AEG its actually better to not dry fire it when ever possible.

ah i see. well it was maybe 2 three round bursts. and when i tried pulling the trigger later nothing even tried to move. but it makes sense that less rotations might equal less wear on the gearbox. i hardly ever put my gun on full auto anyways. even when i do its only for 3-5 round bursts. would it make sense if i get new bushings and reshim when i put the new trigger assy to try and put less strain on the motor? or maybe just some new gear grease?