Not all gears are compatible with all bushings. Even stock ones in some cheaper guns don't work right. You can try taking a fine round file to the inside of the bushings or put the gears in a drill and file down the shafts.

ICS are known for having gears and bushings that only work with their own products.

so what would be crooked? the bushings or gears? and how would i tell which gears i need?

Assuming the gear spins in the bushings on the other side its most likely the bushing that is not in straight. Unless of course the bushing on the other side isn't in straight. I'm not sure since in 50+ guns I've never run into a crooked bushing. I've only worked with good quality components so maybe its something people are running into now a days with the cheap Chinese guns. When you say the bushings don't spin on the shafts do you mean in the mechbox or outside of the mechbox when you fit the parts together in your finger? If its inside the mechbox I would say the most likely culprit is overshimming. If its outside the mechbox with your fingers then either the gear shaft is too large or the bushing inner diameter is too small.

You can try sanding down the gear shafts (a drill helps) with a file or some sand paper made for metal or you can take a small round needle file to the inside of the bushings and try to open them a tad. Personally I would try to file down the inside diameter of the bushings since reducing the gear shaft diameter can weaken it but its a lot easier to do that if you have a drill handy.

As for gear and bushing combinations almost any brand of one works with almost any brand of the other; its only rare combinations that don't work. Just to be sure I try to get gears and bushings from the same brand and its never failed me.

A decent set of gears is going to cost $50+ and a set of bushings from the same manufacturer (if the gears cost that much) are probably going to be $10-15.

Personally I dislike Modify gears since the teeth between the bevel gear and spur gear are extra small and may strip easier. I have only used 2 sets of Modify gears and both stripped but under high stress experimental conditions so I can't really say for sure. I can say they didn't last even 1/10 as long as HurricanE, Guarder, or SystemA gears; those three brands failed during a game when the Modify sets failed while testing in my home. Modify does make great airseal components and I would usually buy those for the best bang for your buck (nozzle, cylinder head, cylinder, and piston head.)

The best gears I ever used where made by SystemA, an old and well known top quality Japanese manufacturer, but they cost $120+ so its not for everyone. If I where to swap the gears on a performance gun now a days I may go with the Siegetek gears discussed in this thread: http://www.ottawavalleyairsoft.ca/forums...-2462.html

i had a case of gears where they spun wwhen the gearbox was disasembled, but locked up every coupple of revolutions after assembly. found the problem was a slightly bent gear post.

yeah see my bushings dont spin when i have the gears out of the gearbox and i try to spin it with my finger.. so i guess that would mean a gear post? man it seems like i should just swap everything out of this gearbox lol

That is sometimes the easier solution but it can cause its own host of problems. I try to avoid that at all costs except as a last resort. Even then its easier and sometimes cheaper to just buy a drop in mechbox from a reputable company instead of buying all new parts to install in your current mechbox.

I would try sanding the gear shafts with a drill and a file before I did anything as drastic as buying all new parts.

ok, well im still kinda confused about how to sand with a drill? but is there a way i might be able to see what is bent or anything without sanding? something to check that it is true?

square

(01-25-2012 11:31 PM)kbeckerton Wrote:  yeah see my bushings dont spin when i have the gears out of the gearbox and i try to spin it with my finger.. so i guess that would mean a gear post? man it seems like i should just swap everything out of this gearbox lol

and for the record, bushings dont spin. they are supposed to be immobile. the gears spin within the bushings, if the gears dont spin in the bushings, theres your problem. the bushings could be off centered, too small, or any number of things.

if your gun was firing when the trigger melted, its likely not a gear issue, if it wasnt, it could be any number of things, most likely the gears locked up and you tried to force it, thats what leads to 90% of electrical problems.

You put one end of the gear in a drill and spin it. The end spinning in the air you hold a file against and this makes sure you keep it round instead of adding flats to it. You do little by little until it fits loose enough to spin but not too loose on the bushing. You do this to as many gear shaft ends as you have that are seizing.

Its a lot easier if you have access to a drill press but a hand drill can work in a pinch.

If you ever swap out the gears totally its probably best to get new bushings at the same time from the same manufacturer. This filing method works more often than not and doesn't cost anything so long as you have access to some basic tools.

(01-26-2012 04:56 PM)Durak Wrote:  square

(01-25-2012 11:31 PM)kbeckerton Wrote:  yeah see my bushings dont spin when i have the gears out of the gearbox and i try to spin it with my finger.. so i guess that would mean a gear post? man it seems like i should just swap everything out of this gearbox lol

and for the record, bushings dont spin. they are supposed to be immobile. the gears spin within the bushings, if the gears dont spin in the bushings, theres your problem. the bushings could be off centered, too small, or any number of things.

if your gun was firing when the trigger melted, its likely not a gear issue, if it wasnt, it could be any number of things, most likely the gears locked up and you tried to force it, thats what leads to 90% of electrical problems.

so do i have to test it with the bushings installed? i cant just pull out the gear and try to spin it with my finger?

also
@LUTNIT
thanks, ill give that a try. do you think a fine grit sand paper would do the same thing?

(01-27-2012 08:13 AM)kbeckerton Wrote:  so do i have to test it with the bushings installed? i cant just pull out the gear and try to spin it with my finger?

also
@LUTNIT
thanks, ill give that a try. do you think a fine grit sand paper would do the same thing?

sand paper wont work, you need something flat, like a file.

as for testing the gears in the bushings, put the gears in the bushings intsalled in the gearbox, dont put the spring, anti reversal latch, or tappet in, close up the gear box and spin the gears by hand, if theres any binding you have a problem, i recomend this to also test your shiming, if its too tight you wont be able to move the gears with ease, if its too loose the gears will have significant side to side play.

re reading your first post, what could of happened is after the last test burst you fired, it short cycled, and locked up. when you went to shoot it again the gears were locked, and it fried the switch.

its always a good idea before putting a gun away to put a gun into semi, and fire 3 or 4 shots to reset the gears to the proper position, dont ask how it happens, i dont know, i just know it works a large percentage of the time.

hmm. ok, well i guess ill have to go buy a file lol. what you said about short cycling seems very possible. ill have to check everything out tomorrow and see what happens. i want to re-shim off the bevel gear anyways so maybe that will help if everything spins ok when its installed in the gearbox.

Sand paper without backing wont work well but could do something. If you backed it with wood or something it should work.

Ok for poor mans lathe.

Install gear in drill chuck. Cut sandpaper to a strip thick enough for the lenght of the part your sanding. Form teardrop loop around axle. Start drill.

Ta Da!

lol, i just might give that a try